Sunday, March 21, 2010

Granite Belt Wine Tourism Market in Brisbane

This Sunday I got to do something out of the ordinary PR developing for the restaurant, cleaning, cooking, cattle rounding, and weed pulling at the farm.  I got to go with another helper to work a booth promoting the restaurant in Brisbane. Part of this was getting up at 4am and be out the door at 4:30 to drive to town with the middle aged Canadian woman and catch the bus at 5am out to Brisbane. She talks a bit too much for me.

The drive over wasnt too bad, there were 11 other Australians that were entertaining to listen to, what with their accents and all.  We got there, set up, then for the next 6 hours I sold apple strudel, which meant talking to random people about what I know nothing about but sounding like I am an ocean of knowledge, something I have become quite good at in life, then cutting pieces of strudel, then putting whipped cream on the plate and doing the money exchange-invigorating really.

My high point of the day was when I scored a free glass of wine. My low point was when I spilled it all over my foot...and oh yeah, the talker. Oh the way the cookie crumbles...

I did have few chunks of lamb on a kebab stick, and a passion fruit soft serve that was phenomenal-another high point.

The ride home was much better-this old lady, 70 maybe, broke up a few bottles of wine and we had some and chatted for the first 3 hours-so that was a hoot.

Then I slept for a good hour before we got back.

I came back to the farm, cooked up a little chicken parmagiana-and now here I am, watching one of the three chanels on my TV-the best thing on-a program highlighting the thriving sex tourism industry in the Ukraine and it's negative impact on the country and its people-interesting.

Tomorrow we are suppose to clean the kitchen and then have the rest of the day off-perhaps go to the national park nearby and do some hiking. Could be nice.

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Thunderbolt-Day 1

I am here in Stanthorpe now at Thunderbolt farm and so far it has been really good. They hooked me up pretty much. I have my own room and it is off of the back of the restaurant, connected by the garage and the staff bathroom. Also, the room has cute decor and a really nice view of the mountains and the livestock below. They have sheep, an alpaka/like a llama, goats, geese, peacocks, cats, dogs, and about 30 cattle. 

Yesterday I helped round up the cattle and get a Bull into the cattle truck to take to the butcher. It was kinda fun. I thought I was going to get charged by a bull though-so a bit of a rush at times.

The restaurant is a good size and they have a small bar and also the works in terms of food prep and drinks, etc. I was told to help my self to the kitchen and food, espresso machine, etc.
Last night we had dinner together and all helped cook it, it was kind of a mix of left overs which was fine, really good food.

The man Keith is Australian and his wife, Claudia is from Germany. Right now there are two German girls and one guy helping out, and then a woman from Canada named Debra. They are all really kind.

Today is sort of the day off for the farm, I guess I came at a good time-I can rest up and try to get rid of this cold before having to do some real work starting Thursday-the restaurant is open Thursdays through Sundays I think...

Their vines are looking pretty sad right now, I guess they had quite the drought this year so Keith didn't really even mess with them.
I tried some of their wine last night at dinner. They have a good sweet red...I will try the others soon enough.

I will be here for about 4-6 weeks so please feel free to mail me at the following address.
 

 679 Thorndale Rd
Stanthorpe Queensland Australia 4380

Friday, March 5, 2010

The Last Three Weeks in a Nutshell...

The Outback

On Tuesday morning we headed out early, waking at 5am, to catch a plane to Alice Springs-the outback.

The flight lasted about three hours, fairly painful for David, as we sat behind a crying baby the entire time.  I didn’t mind it too much-she was the cutest baby I have ever seen-a chunky little 11 month old Aboriginal baby.

We got into Alice and were fascinated with how red and brown the terrain was.  Immediately I noticed how desolate the outback really was-and how dreadfully hot it was.   Arriving at Annie’s Place via their free shuttle service we checked into our nice air conditioned room and took a stroll around the town.  Besides the over priced restaurants and the heaps and heaps of Aboriginal art galleries, there wasn’t much to see.  We settled on a $4 slice of pizza for lunch before heading over to the K-mart, yes I said K-mart, to get some much needed toiletries.  We lazily strolled around the isles, gawking at the insane prices of everything, and then heading back to the hostel for a late afternoon swim.  At the pool we met a few people that had just returned from their three day Rock trip into the outback. They had nothing but good things to say and gave us some much appreciated advice on what to bring. 

That night we decided to splurge on dinner and try some new game.  We went to Overlander Steakhouse, recommended by Lonely Planet, CNN, and every other major travel organization out there, to eat some kangaroo, emu, crocodile, and camel. I will say, the kangaroo was good, damn good-but everything was mediocre and the restraurant was incredibly over priced ($20-60 a plate) and over rated. If you go to Alice Springs, opt out of dinning out, and pick up and cook two fat kangaroo steaks at Coles grocer for $7 instead.
The following morning we woke up at 5am, again, to head out on Mulga’s 3 day $250 Rock Trip.

24 people, myself included, crammed into a 24 passenger bus, and prepared for the five hour drive from Alice Springs to Uluru, also known as Ayers Rock.  Our tour guide was a young woman named Jess, Captain Jess, from Brisbane.  She had been running this tour for the past 14 months and was extremely knowledgeable, friendly, and hilarious.  To stay awake while driving down the dreadfully boring roads, passing spinifex bush after rock after dessert sands, Jess would blare music and sing along.  It was a good thing she had such a great singing voice, I think otherwise the bus rides would have been fairly painful.

A good part of the tour was spent on the bus given the enormity of the outback.  The first day we spent about 7 hours total on the bus, more or less, I lose count.  We drove first to Uluru, the most famous rock in the world.   This massive monolithic chunk of sandstone is a sacred Aboriginal sight, explaining how the land forms came about amongst other teachings to the generations of Aboriginals.  From a distance, especially during sunrise or sunset, Uluru is quite enchanting. Up close, however, the monolith loses its appeal and starts to look like a giant orange-red rock surrounded by a lot of smaller rocks, and red sand, and then there is the immense heat and exhaustion from walking around the 10 kilometer base of it…

The first night we had dinner a fair distance away from Uluru and watched the face of the rock change colors as the sun went down.  After sunset we went back to our campsite in the “bush” (mind you the site had toilet and shower facilities) for the night.  I had a few beers to celebrate my 24th birthday (no acknowledgement, however-with the exception of David) and then go to sleep under the stars in my swag.

The stars out in the outback were the brightest and more gorgeous I had ever seen them.  What was even more amazing was waking up at 4:30am to the stars, still shining brightly.

Why wake up before the crack of dawn, you may ask… Well in the outback there is this problem I like to refer to as the “flies.” Now the flies in the outback are not like your normal summer lemonade stand flies that tend to be a bother and occasionally end up in a cup or two of the punch.   These flies come in swarms and make homes of your nostrils, ears, and mouth-they cover your food and invade your eyelashes.  So eating meals when it is dark-the only time when these flies are gone-is essential. Oh, and a fly net. Thank heavens for fly nets (the kind you wear over your head and then bungee it around your neck so the flies can’t stick to your nose and eyelashes).

The second day in the outback we went back out to the same place in front of Uluru to watch the sunrise.  The sunrise was even more magnificent than the sunset the day before, the flies, however, were worse.  In the morning we walked around the Olgas, a group of rocks near Uluru.  The Olgas were more interesting than Uluru in that you could walk between, up, and down them and see the land in the distance.  Also, unlike Uluru, the Olgas were made up of conglomerate rock.  We then drove a good five hours or so to another campsite nearer to King’s Canyon where we spent the afternoon lazing around the pool and drinking a few cold beers. After dinner I had a nice shower than joined a group of Dutch, Italian, and French people in a game called Capitan Buff-a memory game of sorts which was a load of fun considering everyone’s accents.  The second night was much rowdier than the first, as people had begun to warm up to one another, and the alcohol flowed more freely.

On the third day in the outback, yet again, we woke up at 4am for an early breakfast, sans flies-then headed down to Kings Canyon for a hike before the extreme heat could swallow us up.   King’s Canyon is essentially another heap of rocks protruding from the flat red sandy desert in the middle of Australia.  Unlike Uluru and the Olgas, King’s Canyon was a mass of sandstone and shale, eroded over time by rivers, streams, and wind which formed the giant canyons, rock formations, and valleys where ancient rainforest plants still survived in the Garden of Eden.  The Garden of Eden also had its own swimming hole, where David and I (out of about 50 onlookers) took a cool dip in the tea colored water.

The end of our Rock Trip was spent on the bus as it was a long haul back to Alice Springs.  Getting back to the Hostel in Alice, Annie’s Place, we took a well deserved and glorious shower before joining Jess and a few from our tour for dinner and drinks at the adjacent bar and restaurant.  I ended up chatting with the owners for a bit about the Rock Trip and mentioned I spent my 24th birthday in the outback.  The kindly responded by giving me a bottle of champagne on the house and a hug-I love these kinds of people.

We ended our trip in the outback on a good note and caught a plane back to Melbourne Airport on Feb. 20th, where we somewhat spontaneously decided to rent a car for a few days and drive down the Great Ocean Road of Victoria.

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The Great Ocean Road
Feb. 20-22


An experienced left hand side driver, I drove our Toyota Corolla hatchback from Melbourne Airport towards the town of Lorne on the Great Ocean Road.  Starting from Torquay and ending about 250km west, the Great Ocean Road extends along the southern coast of Victoria.  The views are spectacular and the beaches are pristine.  After a few hours drive out of Melbourne and a few snack detours later we came upon Bells Beach and decided to relax and enjoy the surf for a while.  Hoping to get into Lorne, our destination for the night, before sunset, we headed off just as the sun was beginning to set.  We got into Lorne just in time and found a cozy (although noisy) hostel to stay in for the night.  The location was charming, along the Erksine river, near the beach-the noise level outside-not so charming.  After a trip to the grocery store I cooked up a good dinner and we headed to bed early-thinking we would wake up early and get the most out of our car rental and day ahead.

The next day we awoke from the shrill bird calls outside our window (have you ever heard the banter of a hundred cockatoos at once, not pleasant) and got the show on the road.  We drove towards Apollo Bay taking in the views, stopping at a few small beaches, and jamming out to some holiday mood appropriate music. 

We arrived in Apollo Bay around 11am and took a minor but necessary detour to the doctor for David’s eye infection before driving on to the 12 Apostles view point (also known as the tweob apapoz to most Asian tourists-ahem).  Somewhat disappointed by the extreme tourist train at the viewpoint, we carried on to Port Campbell for a nice sit down and ice cream cone before finding a good spot on the beach to relax for the rest of the day.

That night we stayed in Apollo Bay at Surfside Backpackers, a great spot.  The next morning, our last morning on the Great Ocean Road, we attempted to get up for the sunrise, but I failed miserably despite David’s attempts at rising me.  So instead we simply had our breakfast and got on our way.  The ride back was somewhat stressful as I battled with the broken GPS and David battled with driving on the left side of the road.  We did, however, make it back to Melbourne in time for our flight to Sydney.

The Great Ocean Road was really an amazing drive and a good two days. It’s hard to explain the experience, hopefully my pictures (if I can ever get them uploaded) will do it some justice.


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Feb. 22-24

After a full week together, David and I decided we’d had our fill and went separate ways for a few days. I headed to Bondi Beach in Sydney and he stayed in the downtown area. 

The first day I lazed around the beach-attempting to work on my tan which looked pitiful next to the everyday Bondi sun worshipers.  The second day I was there I decided to check out the Coastal walk which spanned from Bondi to Coogee, a good two hour walk one way.  I passed several beaches, stopping to rest at a few.  Once I got to Coogee I was famished and decided to try out some Australian fast food which turned out to be fairly decent.  I then caught the bus into the city where I decided on a whim, to check out the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House-both magnificent.  I wandered around aimlessly for a few hours before catching a bus back to Bondi.  On the bus I managed to take a nice nap, but luckily still got off at the right time.

I got a call from David, asking if I still wanted to join him for a few days in the Blue Mountains, and fairly unimpressed by Bondi and the City, decided to go.
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Feb. 24-26

The Blue Mountains are only about a two hour train ride from Central Sydney and boast some spectacular hikes, viewpoints, recreation areas, and charming mountain towns.  We stayed in a town called Katoomba, one of the larger in the area.  Our accommodation, as recommended by Lonely Planet, No. 14 was the nicest “hostel” I have stayed in…ever.  Run by a woman by the name of Mandy, this circa 1913 guesthouse felt like home.  The wooden floors, hot showers, modern kitchen, and comfy sofas next to the fireplace set the scene for a nice holiday in the mountains.

The first day David and I headed down to Echo Point, one of the main viewpoints in the mountains.  A thirty minute walk through the town brought us to the viewpoint where we could see the majority of the valley and the Three Sisters.  The Three Sisters is a rock formation that according to aboriginal legend, was at one time three sisters who, being chased by a monster, were turned into stone by their father for protection.  The sisters were never turned back into humans because their father lost his magic bone when he turned himself into a lyrebird, fleeing from the monster.  As the story goes, that is why we still see lyrebirds today in the Blue Mountains, rustling in the leaves, searching for the lost magic bone to turn the three sisters back.

From the Three Sisters we walked along the cliff towards the Luera Cascades, then made out way back up through Katoomba town to do some grocery shopping for the next few days.  The second day in the Blue Mountains we hiked down to Katoomba Falls, passing down the Ferber steps and then finally entering the valley and rainforest below.  We came upon a well touristed area which was once the site of a large coal mine.  Back in the late 1800’s the cliffs were carved with over 100 kilometers of mining tunnels.  An old funicular  from the mining days was still intact, but a new funicular served the millions of tourists each year instead, taking them up the cliff after a long climb down.  David and I hoped on the ride, pleading guilty of playing the lazy tourist role, and enjoyed the commentary by the old English couples sitting near us.

The days in Katoomba and in the Mountains flew by. The weather was cool during the day and cold at night. The skies cleared enough for us to grab some incredible views, and the native birds were aplenty.  It was so great to see cockatoos, rosellas, lorikeets, and lyrebirds in nature, instead of in a cage. 

The last night we were in Katoomba we went to a concert at the Clarenden Hotel.  We stumbled upon this place on our way back from a hike one day and saw they had a group playing that night.  The Aussie/German/American band was made up of four members and called themselves The Beez.  We really didn’t know what we were getting ourselves into…so we had a few drinks before heading over to the venue, and were glad we did.  At first it felt like we were watching the robotic bears at Chucky Cheese, the banjo and accordion going.  Later we relaxing as we heard some more familiar tunes with a twist, and laughed at the jokes each band member would make.  It was a good time.

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Finding time to write has been difficult. I am now on a train back to the Blue Mountains northwest of Sydney.  I had a few more days before I needed start up towards Brisbane, and felt I didn’t get enough of the Blue Mountains when David was here-so I am going back for three nights this time.

I spent the last few days in Sydney.

Friday morning we left to head back to Sydney, and back to Bondi Beach, since David hadn’t been there yet. We staying in a ocean view room. It was amazing hearing the waves in the morning and seeing the sunrise from bed as well.  We woke up early and went over to Clovelly beach to checkout the snorkeling scene.  It wasn’t too impressive and the water was absolutely freezing.  I will say, however, that it was worth the trip out there just to see the giant blue grouper. It must have been three feet long and one foot wide, a magnificent creature.  I would dive down and swim next to it, watching this harmful fish lazily eat the plants on the ocean floor.

In the afternoon we headed over to our hostel in the city, Wake Up.  After a bit of relaxing we walked around and found some reasonable Thai food, then did a bit of souvenir shopping at Market City in the Chinatown area of Sydney.  Market City is by far the most reasonable place to buy anything in Sydney.  I went by the next day and got some fruit, two pears and three kiwi, for one dollar. 

In the late afternoon I wandered around aimlessly while David took a nap.  In the evening we got ready and headed out to check out all the rave at the gay and lesbian Mardi Gras parade. It was most definitely a rave, oh and very flamboyant.  Annoyed at how dreadfully crowded it was, we headed off to Circular Quay, where you can get a good view of the Harbor Bridge and the Opera House.  We settled on a good looking seafood restaurant and had an amazing dinner of swordfish and kingfish.  Afterwards we found a good spot with an even better view and had some dessert and cappuccino at a café.  It was a great last night for David-and I was just getting used to having someone around.

Sunday we parted ways and as David headed to the airport, I headed to a different hostel to try and plan out the next few days or weeks.

I ended up meeting some cool people at this hostel, Home Backpackers, who convinced me to join them the next morning, early.
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3/5/10
Last night, or early this morning rather, I spent a good four hours at the Sydney Opera House, naked.  So this last statement may seem a little odd, or hell, yeah, really odd, so let me give you some context.   Look up the photographer Spencer Tunick and you will understand. Basically several of his works over the past 20 years have focused on nudes in front of monuments, iconic buildings, historical landmarks, etc.  I heard that he would be photographing people at the Opera House from a guy at Bondi YHA named Mark.  At the time I didn’t really think twice about it.  At my hostel last night, Home Backpackers on Elizabeth Street, there were several people staying who came to Sydney solely to be a part of the Spencer Tunick Photo session.   They asked if I was doing it, saying that anyone can join so as long as you sign a model release form. So I thought, “Why the hell not!” and got naked with 5,000 strangers in the morning daylight on the front steps of the Sydney Opera House and inside the concert hall. It was nice being able to see the inside of the building, even better not having to pay the $35 to take a tour, and better yet doing it naked.  I think when everyone around you is also fully exposed, you get comfortable quite quickly-after all-you’re all equally vulnerable.  The hardest part wasn’t being exposed, it was laying on the cold concrete naked, posing on top of theatre seats, and not sleeping for a night (we had to wake up at 3am to get there by 4am-wait for the sunrise-then get naked for the pictures).  Exhilarating.  And now I am part of a famous artists’ works….and not only can I say I have been to the Sydney Opera House, but I have been there in the nude with 5,000 other people.  Beautiful.

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3/5/10
Monday I headed back to the Blue Mountains for a few days of walking, relaxing, and breathing in some fresh air.  I went on a few more hikes around the area, went to Black Heath, and then checked out the little town of Leura.  I traded in my book-no more Twilight Series (happy now?) and now I am on to the Life of Pi which should be better.

I go to Brisbane March 4th, where I plan to stay with some people I met while traveling in Asia.  I think perhaps Monday I will head to Stanthorpe and start my work on the vineyard.
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I knew Australia would be expensive, but holy cow, its insane.  The hostels and restaurants in Melbourne were unforgiving, and in Alice Springs, relentless on your pocketbook.  A bottled water costs around $4 and if you want to eat a nutritious meal, plan on spending $12-20 a plate.  I think I will do some cooking at the hostel the next couple of days to try and cut some costs.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Austraila- Melbourne

I have been in Australia now for about two weeks.  I came into Melbourne on the 13th, spent a few days, then went to the outback for a good 5 days.

Melbourne was an interesting city, very clean, well laid out, full of fashionable people, art, and trendy cafes.  It only took about two days to see the more exciting parts of the city. 

The first night, I was alone, as David’s flight was delayed due to the snow in Dallas.  I walked around a bit, than went to bed around 5pm, exhausted from the flight over.  The next day he got in around noon, and we headed straight out to do some sight seeing.  We walked around the city center, going into the State Library, which was once the Victoria National Gallery, a beautiful building and excellent library.  Later we walked through Victoria Market, unimpressed with the goods on display, then through Fitzroy Gardens and back into the city center, taking in all of the shops and cafes.  We ate outside at a cute café where I had a gorgeous green salad for the first time in months, as SE Asia isn’t exactly the spot to eat salad.  We spent the rest of the afternoon in St. Kilda, enjoying the bay at a café with a few beers before taking on the St. Kilda Festival and listening to a few bands play.  I got to meet up with Phil, an Irish guy I met in Kuala Lumpur in January who lives in Melbourne.  We hung out with him and a few of his friends at a bar that night before heading back to our hostel.  It was nice to see another familiar face.

The next day we walked around the Southbank area which lines the Yarra river, had some breakfast at a nice café, and then checked out the sports complex, old Olympic park, and Cricket Fields.  The afternoon was spend mainly planning the next week or so, and unwinding at the hostel, doing laundry, etc.  We had big plans for the night, however. 

Our last night in Melbourne we went to the Crown Casino for dinner and drinks.  We heard from a few Kiwi guys that there was a summer special going on.  For $12 you could get dinner and a drink, what a deal!  We went to one of the restaurants in the casino, a Mediterranean restaurant, and had a phenomenal meal.  Afterwards we did a bit of gambling. I went for the slot machines and came out $1 on top and decided to stop. David played some blackjack and ended up losing $30, ouch.  It was my first time in a casino, and I thought it was just so much fun….Las Vegas here I come.

Overall, I think unless you have loads of money and can shop till you drop, Melbourne is more of a place to just sit at a café and people watch than anything else.

More to come....

Northern Vietnam and my last days in Hanoi

I never did buy a sweater before going up to Sapa-turns out I could have used one.  The rice home made rice wine seemed to do a decent job keeping me warm.

Sapa is a town in northern Vietnam surrounded by mountains, valleys, and an abundance of man made terraces for cultivating rice.   Many people live in the town of Sapa or the surrounding villages that make up the region.  Several Mung and Dao tribes still thrive in this region and make a living either farming or following tourists.   The people of these tribes still wear traditional garb, and live a very traditional life style, sans the cell phone that is...

I took the night train from Hanoi to Lao Cai, an 8 hour journey. Surprisingly I sleep for the majority of it and woke feeling like I had only been sleeping a few minutes.   The first day I joined a group for a tour of BacHa Market, in a town about 70km away from Sapa.  The ride there was long and fairly painful, as the Vietnamese tourists shared the microphone and sang karaoke the entire way there, mind you the microphone was not of the best quality, and neither was my patience. 

The market itself was not too impressive, but still somewhat interesting.  I coupled up with a solo traveler from England, and architect named Nick, and we explored the market together.  Besides the normal fare, the only thing that caught my attention was the meat market, dog and all.

After a few hours at the market, tired of wandering around, Nick and I settled down for a beer and some good people watching before our scheduled lunch hour and bus ride to the next destination of the day, the China-Vietnam border.

Another hour or so on the bus, we got out and looked at a traditional Flower Mung village home.  The woman working in this home was making traditional “happy water.”  The only thing I can liken this particular happy water to is what we Texans call “moonshine.” Its corn based liquor, strong, nasty, and get you going.  After a shot of this-mid day-I was ready to get going…to bed.

The bus ride to the border I was out like a light, a nice nap all in all give or take some neck pain.  The border was about as interesting and exciting as when you cross over from Texas into Oklahoma, yet less beautiful and there is no formal welcome sign or travel center, only some electric fencing and an immigration office.  Oh well, I guess I can say I have seen China now.

The rest of the day I got to take it easy at the Fansipan Hotel in Sapa. I had my own room with the most amazing shower, consistently hot shower, and clean comfy bed with crisp sheets.  I went to bed at 8pm and didn’t wake up until my alarm went off.  Rare.

The next day was the start of our two day trek.  I joined a different group for this part of the trip.  There were six of us total, five girls (three from Oz, one from Israel, and myself) and one guy (Ole from Alaska/Mexico).  We had a guide named something like Juan but I can’t be bothered to attempt to spell it correctly in Vietnamese.

Day one was supposedly a 19km trek-sure didn’t feel like it. Easy as pie except for the one area where we had to walk down a steep hill for about thirty minutes.  The entire time we walked, we were followed by several Mung tribal women.  These women would ask us questions is English, attempt to build a sort of friendship, then at the right moment try to make a sale.  Mainly they sold jewelry, and other odds and ends made from their woven fabrics.  I somehow got off only buy a pair of ear rings for a measly 20,000 Dong ($1).

We had lunch about half way at some random wooden building in the mountains. Lunch consisted of the same exact thing I had for breakfast, a baguette, laughing cow cheese, and cucumber.  Delightful. After lunch we continued on towards our homestay for the night.  The homestay was in a larger village in one of the valleys and was quite luxurious considering the other homes we had seen on the trek out there.  It was a large two story wooden home with a patio and pool table outdoors, and a small TV indoors.  Granted the kitchen was all wood fired, and the home lacked most modern amenities, it was comfortable.  Due to its touristy nature, the homestay sadly didn’t include much interaction with the actual family that lived there, they merely acted as a host instead.  I felt this especially when I asked to help prepare our dinner, hoping to learn a few things and engage in some cultural interaction, and was turned down and told to go sit outside with the other foreigners. I did, however, at one point, convince one of the young girls to let me roll a few spring rolls before she fried them up.  Needless to say she was impressed by my skills.

The evening meal was delicious.  We ate a number of different dishes: chicken and mushrooms, tofu and tomatoes, pork, pig intestine (eek), spring rolls, and rice. One of the best meals I had in Vietnam.  The night was passed playing pool, telling stories, drinking rice wine, and watching the local village men get drunk and smoke tobacco out of a giant bamboo pipe.

Day two was only 10km. Which felt even shorter as we took it slow, and stopped at several small villages and viewpoints.  Its hard to describe these villages and their people, I think my pictures will do some justice.  They seemed overall happy and carefree, and for the most part healthy despite the living conditions.

The end of the Sapa trek brought us back to Sapa where I did a bit of shopping in the street market/black market, and bought a sweater finally.  I then went to a viewpoint café with Ole from the tour group and was convinced to have a cup of Vietnamese coffee with him-arguably the best damn cup of coffee I have ever had given I don’t like coffee.

From there it was a shower and another bus ride to Lao Cai for another night train.  There was a mix up with my train ticket, apparently the tour company gave me a ticket for the day before I was suppose to leave, causing some frustration, a few cross words on my part, followed by it all working out alright-somehow.  The night train back I didn’t sleep as well-it was bumpy and I kept waking-thinking it was going to derail and crash-not a good feeling.

I did get into Hanoi at about 5am that morning. After haggling with a few taxi drivers, I found a good price and transferred over to the hostel again.  I went back to bed and woke up about 10am, ready for another day in the busy city of Hanoi.

My friend Collin, who I met in Thailand and Laos, was also in Hanoi at this point, so we partnered up to take on the city streets for the day.  In all honestly, I don’t think we made it farther than about 2km from the hostel, but still, we had a good time.  We searched for some real Vietnamese food, noodles and grilled pork called “bun chao.”  For about $2 each we ate an incredible meal.  Collin was excited to be introduced to some new food, and I was happy to have someone to share a meal with.

We walked around for a while in an attempt to find a traditional Vietnamese beverage made from white or black beans and ice.  After walking around the busy streets, perusing all of the markets selling décor for the coming Chinese New Year, we finally came upon the small hole in the wall that was serving the beverage.  The place was fairly busy-and seemed a popular cold treat for working women and men in the heat of the afternoon.  It was definitely different, but Collin and I both agreed it was tasty.

The rest of the afternoon we lounged around-watched half of a horrible movie, Eagle Eye, what a waste of time…then settled for happy hour at the hostel’s bar instead.   Into the evening we decided to go for a change of scenery and search for a bar outside of the hostel’s comfort zone.  We ended up at a place I had eaten dinner at a week before, and the beer there was less than a dollar a glass.  After some good conversation and good number of beers later we went for a walk around the lake and enjoyed some of the city lights, people watching, and did some tree climbing.  The atmosphere around the lake was really nice, and convinced me that Hanoi did, after all, uphold some bit of charm.

I flew out early the next morning-after a major mistake on the date of my flight, and a loss of about $400.  Note to self: always read the fine print.  My flight was on the 10th, not the 11th. Well shit.  I had a pretty horrible day, but by the end of it, sleeping in my comfortable bed in Kuala Lumpur, and knowing I would be flying out to Melbourne the following night, things were starting to look up again.

Sorry but no pictures for a while-I have yet to find an internet connection fast and cheap enough.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Good Morning Vietnam!

So it has been quite a while since I have updated this site. Seeing a trend here?

Vang Vieng was awesome. I had so much fun and hung out with some cool people.  I rode bikes to a cave and small natural pool with a few people from the hostel, Ben from LA, Tom, and Emma from Australia.  We had a really good time bumping down the rocky dirt roads on our granny bicycles, exploring the dark cave and swimming in the freezing water, dodging sharp rocks.  I ended up going tubing with them the first full day, and having a blast.

The second day I took it easy, like I said, and went tubing down the river the full three hours. I was seriously the only person on the river for most of the way-running into local fisherman and little kids mostly.  At one point I stopped along the river for a beer, and ended up fishing with a local man for about an hour. His English was incredible, and I learned a lot more about day to day life in Laos.

That afternoon I met up with a friend from my travels in Thailand.  Collin and I met in Chiang Mai, a fellow American, we hit it off and were excited when we ended up meeting again in Laos.  We hung out the next few days, went out at night, went tubing during the day, and basically just made fun of all the annoying Swedish people staying at our hostel.

I was sad to leave Laos since I had so much fun there-made some good friends.

I set off to Hanoi Vietnam on the 1st of February, arrived late and exhausted, and went on a three day Halong Bay tour the next morning.

Despite the drab weather, Halong Bay was beautiful.  It is made up of over 1000 limestone karsts/islands that stick out of the water as far as the eye can see.  After a four hour bus ride out of Hanoi, I boarded a large boat with about 25 other backpackers. We checked into our cabins (I got my own room!), and we had a good lunch, and all started to chat and make friends.  At first the group was not very exciting, and I questioned how well everyone was going to get along.  By the end of the day, however, everyone was having a great time together-jumping off the boat, having a few drinks, playing cards, sharing music, etc.

The second day we moved from the big boat to a smaller one that took us to a tiny island where we spent the next day and night.  Castaway Island was phenomenal. There were a few small huts for sleeping pads, toilets, a ping pong table, volley ball court, and a pavilion for eating and drinking.  Very charming and cute, not to mention scenic.  Had the weather been better, it would have been paradise in my eyes.  This is a place I would love to come back to someday.

I really clicked with several of the people from this trip, and hope to see them again someday.  I met two English girls, Alice and Lauren, who are traveling for the next eight months and have plans to come over to the states, should be fun.  I got everyone excited about coming to Texas and experience some real BBQ, a rodeo, tubing, wine country, and Austin.  It is amazing how much people know about Texas.

After three long days at Halong Bay, I was exhausted and spent the next few days in Hanoi doing absolutely nothing.  I think today I will actually leave the vicinity of the hostel and go see a sight or two. I just really don’t care for the hustle and bustle of Hanoi, the trash, and the dangerous street crossings. I do, however, like to the Pho.

I leave tonight for a four night tour of Sapa, the northern region of Vietnam. I really need to go buy a warm sweater for this trip-I am not quite prepared.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Laos

Luang Prabang was a beautiful, charming, little town.  The first day I got out I joined a group from the hostel and went to Kuang Si water fall which was astounding. It was made up of several tiers and many clear bluish swimming holes.  I climbed up the steep side of the hill to get a view from the top-quite a workout-before descending and enjoying a cool swim in one of the pools.  The rest of the day I took it easy, roamed around town a bit, then went out to dinner with the group at a place that overlooked the Mekong called “Utopia.” It was a picturesque place that offered sand volley ball, bamboo bungalow style furniture, and several lounge areas. I ended up going back the next day, during the day, to fully enjoy the atmosphere.

On day two I decided to explore more of the town by bicycle.  I rode around to the many temples and even climbed to the top of the hill for a spectacular view of the city.  In part of this hill top temple was a shrine to the foot print of Buddha, which ended up being quite larger than life…sort of strange the types of relics dedicated to religions in general.

In the evening I perused around the night market and ate on the street. They had the best food I have eaten in a while, full veggie buffet style for less than $1 and then a grilled fish that had been stuffed with lemon grass for around $2-the fish was so good I can’t even explain it.

I ended up buying only a t-shirt and a silk scarf. There were so many beautiful silks and things I wanted to buy-but felt that it wasn’t essential to my being, and passed it up.

The last day in Luang Prabang, I joined a group for Mahout Elephant training.  Basically I went to an Elephant Sanctuary and feed, rode, bathed, and played with elephants.  I will try to upload some pictures so you get a better idea.  But this was such an amazing and surreal experience.  I rode on the neck of the elephant in the forest than into the river where the elephants would stand, sit, and move around, scaring the shit out of me but making me fall into fits of laughter, either from fear or joy.

Thursday I took a minivan from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng, the tubing/backpacker/party town mid way between Luang Prabang and Vientian.  The ride over was gorgeous, and at one point as we scaled up and down the mountain sides, we were actually about the clouds. I got a better view of typical Lao life outside of the tourist areas. Many people live in small huts on the side of the mountain road, farming, making things to sell out of natural resources, and living a simple life with almost no modern luxuries.  It seems the children here grow up fast. Many 7-10 year old children looked to be in charge of their infant siblings whilst their parents worked, often carrying them on their backs in slings.  It was great to see this side of Laos. Besides the Lao man sitting next to me, invading my personal space, the ride was quite pleasant.

Once here, I scooped out the town, ran into some people from Luang Prabang, Aileen from Ohio and Marizio from Mexico- we had a meal together than goofed off the rest of the night.

Friday I went tubing. “Tubing” here is basically word for swimming down the river going from bar to bar where they blast music, give you free Lao Whiskey, and young adults engage in the type of activities their parents wouldn’t approve of.  Really has nothing to do with tubing at all. End of explanation.

It was fun, I didn’t drink very much and decided to enjoy the scenery instead.  I think today I will go kayak or tubing down the river, actual tubing, like we do in Texas.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Lions, Tiger, No Bears, Oh Chiang Mai (Oh yeah, Elephants too...)

24-01-10

It has been all to long since I wrote anything.

Chiang Mai was as great as I expected it to be. Unfortunately I didn’t get to spend enough time there.

The first day I got my bearings.  I rode up to the hill top temple with a few others from the hostel. It was a nice sight to see. Countless Buddha figures, golden mosaics, and the like.  Beside the regular tourist fare, it would have been a peaceful retreat from the city.

The afternoon was spent walking around the main “downtown” area of Chiang Mai, seeing about 4 or 5 different Wats or Temples, and grabbing a snack.  I was trying not to fill up before my evening of cooking and marathon eating at Baan Thai cooking school.

From 4pm till about 9pm I joined 8 other strangers for a cooking class. We started out by going to the market nearby, where we were given the low down on local vegetables, fruits, coconut milk, etc.  We made a total of five dishes each.  I made papaya salad, stir-fried chicken cashew nut, coconut milk and chicken soup, chiang mai noodle, and mango sticky rice. All very tasty. It was really hard to eat all if it, and I ended up taking some of it back to the hostel with me.  I was really surprised how easy all of it was to make, and how quick too.

I spent the later part of the night perusing the night market and buying only two small items, a coin purse and some essential oils/smell goody things.

The second day in Chiang Mai I joined a tour group for a day trek.  Although there was little actual trekking involved, I did have a great time.  We rode in a truck for about an hour before stopping briefly at a orchid and butterfly farm, then going on to one of the highlights of the trip-elephant riding.

We went to an elephant sanctuary of sorts out in the middle of nowhere. There were several elephants, a few male, female, and one baby elephant.  Some were very old, almost 40 years, and other quite young.  We were able to take pictures with them, feed them, and then finally ride them.  While feeding them, we learned to say “apa” meaning open, and the elephants would open their mouths, and we would then throw in pineapple, banana, etc.  They were so adorable, yet so large, strong and intimidating.  The baby elephant was only 6 months, and really mischievous. 

When it was time to ride the elephants, everyone else was coupled up, so I ended up riding one with the other solo traveler, a man from Switzerland named Andy.   We had a good time riding on the elephant. We were very nervous at first, as we were a top the largest male elephant, yet we gradually gained confidence in the beast, and rode it with some ease after a while. We even took turns riding on the neck of the elephant, which was just an amazing experience.

The tour took us all rafting in the afternoon, first white water rafting, then bamboo rafting.  Both were fairly exciting, but the white water rafting was much more action packed, despite the small rapids. It was the first time I have ever been rafting, and I really enjoyed it, I think I will have to go again sometime!

The tour ended and I went back to the hostel to join a large barbeque with the other people staying at Spicy Thai .  It was a load of fun and I think I played the largest game of King’s Cup ever in my life. Quite exciting.  Afterwards we all went out to the bars and clubs of Chiang Mai and painted the town until there was no longer any wet paint in my bucket at about 7am.

The next day I lazed about then went to the Tiger Kingdom outside of Chiang Mai to “play” with the big cats. By “play” I really mean just quietly pet and look at the tigers while my heart raced inside of me at 1000 beats per minute.  It was a once in a lifetime sort of a thing-just phenomenal.

That event pretty much sums up the end of my time in Chiang Mai. The next day I headed out to Luang Prabang Laos, where I started feeling really horrible.  I checked into a hospital there that afternoon and got a few shots, an IV, and a vague diagnosis.  I think it is just some sort of undeveloped country bug making its way through my intestines…its almost gone.  Needless to say, hospitals in Laos, not the cleanest, finest places in the world.

I am going to take a chance today and go out to see a waterfall, hopefully my stomach agrees with the decision.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Bangkok

I have spent the last few days in Bangkok, and honestly, I really have not done all that much.
Right away I met another girl traveling solo. Ashley was nearing  her last day of vacation in Thailand and wanted to go to the skybar for a small birthday celebration.  Now skybar is one of the “highest and largest” open air roof top bars in the world. It is 64 floors up, and boasts a decent view of Bangkok, an ostentatious cliental, and over priced cocktails.  After showing up and being turned away because my sandals were not with in dress code (even though I looked nice, clean, and presentable) Ashley and I searched the streets of Bangkok for some cheap sandals that would be within dress code. Not more than twenty minutes and a few less baht later, we showed up on the rooftop for our 450 baht cocktail.  The mojito was good, the view better.

The next day I met another girl traveling solo, Serene from Canada.  We decided to all go together to the see the temples and the Grand Palace.  After two hours of struggling to get there, fighting tuk tuk drivers, scam artists, and the greater Bangkok public transportation system, we arrived.

The temples were quite impressive, really a grand sight to see.  They were so magnificently decorated and there were so many structures in the complex that it soon became overwhelming.  The temple of the emerald Buddha was by far the most impressive. No photography was allowed, so you will have to google it to see a photo.  Apparently this statue of the Buddha, which is actually made of Jasper, not Emerald, was once covered in Stucco, and thought to merely be a stucco sculpture.  Later, however, a part of the stone was uncovered and thus the legend began.  It was “stolen” by Laos at one time, and later taken again by the Thais.

Another Temple that is worthy of noting was Wat Pho.  Here lays the largest reclining Buddha, made of brick, plaster, and covered in gold foil.  The best part of this figure are his feet, which are mother of pearl inlay pictures of smaller Buddha figures and script.

The Grand Palace was also very beautiful.  After spending a number of hours gawking at this ornate style of architecture, I started to feel as though I was at Disney Land for Buddha.

Friday night I met up with an old acquaintance, Craig.  Craig went to Trinity University also, and we worked together at the Princeton Review in San Antonio for sometime.  He has been living and working in Bangkok now for about a year and loves it.

We got dinner with a group of people then went to drink sake in the Japanese area of town. I used some of my skills and read the sake bottle to everyone. I felt fulfilled.

Later in the night we went to Khao San Road, the famous toursit/backpacker road from the movie The Beach.  It was happening, stock full of venders, drunks, and bars.  We went to a bar/club called Gazebo which was quite fun. I met a few more people and also Craig’s Thai girlfriend who was very cute.

The next day proved slightly non productive. I laid around and hung out with Serene before deciding to join her and her friends Charity and James from the US that live here.  We chatted and then found some street food before going out to attempt to get tickets to some Muay Thai boxing. Unfortunately the tickets were sold out, so we settled on roaming around Khao San Road. 

There I got some delicious pad thai for only 40 Baht (about $1.50) and chang beer ($0.80). Amazing.
Later that night we went to Patpong (Bangkok’s red light district) and were hassled to go see a ping pong show.  No thanks.

On Sunday I went to the weekend market with my new friend Mel, a Thai-American artist living in Seattle and studying Gemology here.  We had a good time, ate some great food: chicken, rice, papaya salad, etc. I walked around the market and amazingly didn’t buy anything.

Sunday night I hung out with Mel and Craig and roamed around the Silom Festival before retiring to a smaller quieter street for some good noodle soup.

I have mixed feelings about Bangkok. It is an interesting vibrant city, yet it is exhausting and noisy.  I am ready to get out of here and enjoy the charms of Chiang Mai-my flight leaves tonight.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Golf, Yoga, and The Beach

11-01-10

Yesterday was a great day. The morning started off a bit rough, as me and my comrades didn’t rise until lunch time.  Due to the overcast weather, Carina suggested we go mini golfing.  We lasted only 6 holes at the small putt putt center.  At hole 6 we bounced around the idea of going exploring instead, since the sun had come out.  Our decision was final two seconds later when Jochen and Carina accidentally broke the cement table shaped like a tree stump.  They merely leaned over it on their elbow and the damn thing fell into bits and pieces. We laughed hysterically at the sight of it, then bolted in fear of the owners making us pay. Fortunately they didn’t seem to mind, suggesting that this was not the first time this has happened.

We then went to do a jungle trek to see a waterfall. After walking five minutes Max began to complain, saying “we could be on the beach right now, blah blah blah” as the sun had finally come out.  We walked another ten of so minutes before coming upon a cave. We explored the cave for a few minutes, admiring the amazing roots which grew straight down out of the rocks above and into the ground below.  At that point we decided everyone had enough, and we would then go to the beach to catch the last bit of afternoon sun and the sunset.  We went to a new beach, the most southern beach on Koh Lanta. It was very beautiful and the sand was finer and nearly as white as sugar.  We all relaxed for a bit, watched the sun go down, then went to have dinner at a nearby restaurant called, “Same Same, but Different.”  The food was good, the white wine was refreshing (Thanks Max and Jochen for having good jobs and buying the bottle).   I was exhausted from the day and nearly fell asleep at the dinner table.

I went to bed at nine thirty that night.

On Monday the 11th of January, I woke up early to go to a yoga class on the beach.  My friend Tom took me over on his motor bike.  There were only 5 in the class and some were beginners so it was a fairly easy going practice.  Having the beach to look at ten feet in front of you whilst doing yoga is amazing.  Nonetheless, I am sore.  I walked back to the bungalow afterwards, it took about an hour. It was so hot and I actually enjoyed my cold shower for the first time in a long time.

The rest of the day I spent on the beach, reading and swimming. I did end up getting a one hour Thai massage which was nice. Quite different than the massage I have had before.

Last night I got dinner with my friend Kuba from Poland-then met up with Jo, Max, and Tom for a party back at the south beach. It ended up being a really fun night. There were maybe one hundred people there, all having a good time, relaxing, and listening to the live band which surprisingly played a lot of American music from the seventies on.

12-01-10

Today I went on an all day excursion to Phi Phi Island.  The trip began at 7:30 (super early considering the hour I went to bed) and lasted until 4pm.  It included a boat ride over to Phi Phi, Manaba Bay, Monkey Island, lunch on the boat, and a stop over at Phi Phi for a few hours.

The snorkeling wasn’t that great. The corals were not very diverse or colorful. There were, however, several very large and colorful parrot fish, coral fish, and damsels. Borneo definitely had better reefs for snorkeling.

The water around the island was gorgeous, crystal clear, dazzling.  I went to the beach for the movie “The Beach” which was kind of cool, too bad it was stuffed with tourists and boats.

I met some nice people, among them was an older French man named Gerard, who snorkeled with me a bit.

The beach on the opposite side of Phi Phi was brilliant. It was so shallow for half a mile out of the bay, hence it looked so clear and bright blue.

To end my trip I enjoyed a fresh coconut drink, then got on the ferry back to Koh Lanta.

I leave Koh Lanta tomorrow and take the overnight bus to Bangkok. Not looking forward to the ten hour ride, but perhaps I can sleep some.

I plan to spend only a few nights there, then head north.  I cannot believe time has gone by so fast already. I have been gone for over a month now, and I go to Australia in just one month.  I am getting really excited to see more of Thailand, then Laos, Vietnam, and then finally see Australia (not to mention also a certain someone).

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Koh Lanta

08-01-10

Yesterday I left Krabi Town and headed to the island of Koh Lanta.  Koh Lanta is a good sized island south of Krabi Town on the Adaman coast of Thailand.  The minivan ride took around 2 hours and consisted of highway driving and two sort ferry transports. I rode in the van with 5 others, all Thai people, none of which spoke English.  The driver attempted to pawn me off to a tuk tuk driver once on Koh Lanta, but I persisted and made him drive me to the doorstep of my bungalow.

I had plans to stay at a place called Sanctuary, yet after seeing the A line bungalow that was fit to my budget, I started to shop around. I found a nice place with my own bathroom, fan and cold shower for 500 Baht per night, only 100 more than the small bungalow at Sanctuary which had only a nasty shared bathroom and stood 10ft in from of a few horse and chickens….no thank you.

On my way to this other place I ran into a few friends I had met in the Cameron Highlands. They offered a ride to where they were staying-said it was nice, so I took them up on it. Two of them are from Holland, Jasper and Tess, and the other from Australia, Stewie.  I ended up bargaining with a Thai lady to give me a bungalow for 400 Baht a night, what I would have paid for the shit one I first saw, and it has worked out quite nicely so far. I have my own bathroom, real floor, raised bed, mosquito net, fan, etc.

I spent the afternoon just walking along the beach, finishing up my book (Sex Lives of Cannibals by Maarten Troost, very funny, read it), and relaxing. In the evening, after a cold shower, I met up with Jasper, Tess, and Stewie, we all visited and watched the sunset. At that time I also met two new friends from Germany, Max and Johen.  They are very intelligent funny fellows who I ended up spending the evening and next day with.

The late evening hours were spend drinking, eating, and singing along to guitar music played by a polish man next to a camp fire on the beach.  Really just an amazing night with a very international crowd.

Today it was beautiful and sunny for most of the day. I rode down to a different beach with Max and Jochen and spent the day swimming, laying out, reading, and drinking some really delicious coconut drinks.
We laid in hammocks next to a tikki bar, and enjoyed the afternoon showers and evening sunset.  We had dinner at a nearby “Sunset Restaurant” where indeed, the sunset was phenomenal. Absolutely hands down the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen. The clouds formed grey mountainous landscapes that brooded below vanilla and strawberry swirled skies.

Once it became dark, we headed back to our bungalows for a cold refreshing shower. Followed by a nice dinner on the beach.  We ended the night hanging out at a nearby bar that attracted a more eccentric crowd.


10-01-10

Yesterday was another beautiful sunny day in Koh Lanta. I woke up a bit earlier in hopes of seeking out a fairly priced snorkeling tour to some of the smaller islands around, but was disappointed not to find any. (I think I will go back to Krabi and spend a day snorkeling Phi Phi Island or something before I head to Bangkok).  Nonetheless, I headed to the Viewpoint Restaurant for brunch with a few of my friends from the bungalow.  Carina from Germany, who I met in KL on New Years, has been hanging out with me and my two German friends, Max and Jochen.  She is a lot of fun and it is nice having another girl to hang around with (We met again here coincidentally!)  I find that girls don’t tend to travel solo nearly as often as guys around here.

After a good brunch at an amazing spot, we headed back to the same beach as the day before because we liked it so much and found it so beautiful and peaceful. The coconut shakes there are pretty damn good too.

I spent the day swimming in the ocean, laying around, playing Frisbee, drinking a coconut shake (the highlight of the day), and chatting with my fellow travelers.  The sunset last night wasn’t nearly as beautiful or enjoyable. We went to the same restaurant on the beach, but this time it was crowded with side shows, and more tourists.  There was a “snake charmer,” whom I didn’t find to be very charming at all, and two elephants and their keepers, I don’t care much for seeing enslaved elephants. 

In the late evening we all headed back to the bungalows then out for a night at the “Feeling Bar,” where another traveler was Djing. There was a huge group of Germans, infact, almost all the people I have met here are German. Besides my English friend Tom and these other two American guys, whom don’t really amuse me, there are lots of Germans-I am starting to develop a certain affinity for them and their guttural language. 

Today looks like another nice day. I think perhaps it will be spent on a beach-imagine that.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

First Day in Thailand

I really need to catch up on the Cameron Highlands- its on my to do list.
For now, let me just share with you the details of today.

I am now in Krabi, Thailand. I flew in yesterday from KL, an hour and half flight.  I planned on spending that hour and half sleeping, but the Germans behind me had other plans.

I came into the Krabi airport and was quite impressed at how modern and clean it was. The bathroom even had toilet paper and soap, quite an advancement compared to Malaysian airports, bathrooms, and such facilities.

I got onto a bus into town, just like all the other fresh faced foreigners around.  I found my hostel after wandering for only about ten minutes, but the town of Krabi can honestly be covered on foot in about ten minutes. I am staying at Chan-Cha-Lay Guesthouse. It is very clean, has a cute beach theme, and despite the charm only rates as a 4 on my scale (1-10), as it lacks comfortable beds and a/c.

I spent most of the afternoon settling in, getting laundry done, and figuring out my next move.  I ate some decent pad thai, enjoyed the evening watching a movie and surfing the internet at a café. I also conversed with a woman from Belgium who was on her way to the Philippines. 

Another night of tossing and turning…

Today was an alright day. I wouldn’t call it a great day, but it will do.

I booked a kayaking tour for the first half of the day. After much ambiguity and an hour of riding in the back of a pick-up trunk/Thai style bus, two other Americans (Steph and Brian from San Francisco) and I were quite disappointed with the 1.5 hour kayaking trip to two caves. At the first stop we had to get out of the kayak in order to view the cave and the ancient paintings inside. They were sort of cool but lacked real luster, since we were given no information about them-besides the obvious. The second cave was much more exciting. We kayaked through it and were able to view all of the formations.  The tour was quick, and I was in a kayak with some random Thai girl-I was expecting more.

In the afternoon I went to Railay Beach. It was very pretty, but also very crowded. I hiked around a bit in search of cheap accommodation but found nothing under 500 THB.  I then went the the “Rock Restaurant.”
This place overlooked one of the large limestone karsts that several rock climbers where scaling up.  It was relaxing, the pad thai was great, and the view couldn’t have been better.

I then headed to the beach-laid out for a bit, swam a bit, got stung by some jelly fish a bit.  After I headed back to the Ao Nang on my way back to Krabi Town, where I enjoyed a coconut shake, searched for more accommodation-found nothing too promising, and decided its best to just head out to Koh Lanta tomorrow.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Batu Caves: Last excursion of 2010

The 31st I visited the Batu Caves outside of KL.  The Caves, discovered about 120 years ago by an Englishman are now home to a number of Hindu temples, tourist booths, and raging hungry blood sucking monkeys.  Ok, so it was a cave, and there were Hindu temples, and there were monkeys, but not of the blood sucking variety (however, they were quite frightening).  You must look at my pictures to really understand what I am talking about.

The caves were a sight to see, no doubt about that. The dominating golden statue at the entrance, the grand staircase ascending into the colossal cave entrance, it was all phenomenal.  Unfortunately, what was once an amazing natural wonder, is now an overt tourist attraction, complete with concrete steps and railings, animals to pet, and trinkets galore.  No doubt all the cave formations- stalagmites and helictites- have been damaged, as the natural environment has been devastated by the introduction of the temples and tourists. 

There were several monkeys living and feeding around the caves. These particular monkeys were quite mischievous, and not in a cute way.  They were voracious-grabbing peoples’ food, trash, anything they could get their little hands on. At one point, a monkey grabbed a coconut half offered from a tourist, then proceeded to climb up two stories to enjoy it, only to drop in nearly two inches from another tourist’s head.  Upon dropping the coconut, the monkey flipped out, ran down the pole, and hissed at anyone nearby, myself included. At that point I decided, “Today I don’t want to be ‘friends’, today I don’t want to get rabies” and steered clear of any and all monkeys.

After leaving the Batu Caves, I bought a box of various Indian desserts and sweets, many of them I did not like at all, and a few were interesting.  I ended up leaving them on the street in the hopes that someone who was hungry would pick it up-as often happens in places like Kuala Lumpur.

The afternoon was spent napping and getting psyched up for New Year’s eve.  I had dinner with Frank and Johannes at Reggae Bar in Chinatown were we met up with several other travelers who were in for a fun night.  Next we hit up a shady rooftop bar in Chinatown-dirty, gritting, cheap, but with a magnificent view.  Merdeka square had free concerts and festivities, so we stopped by for a peak before heading over to the famous Petronas Towers for the countdown and fireworks show.

The towers were so beautiful and the lights were quite a sight to see.  Unfortunately, the count down was a disappointment; as the clock on the skyscraper next door struck twelve, the count down hadn’t even started, thus confusing everyone…then the fireworks started before the M.C. had finished counting down. Still, it was a great place to be for the New Year.

We finished the night back at a club, were we met up with our Swedish friends and where I met a few more people.  There was Damien from the Caribbean, who lived in Germany, and Ingrid from Norway.

The next morning I headed out early for the Cameron Highlands, five hours north of KL.